AN INSTANT CLASSIC 

As explored in our previous article about the institution, the top floor of the Crix has taken many forms over the years. From their original purpose as hotel rooms, to a 90s rave cave and the restaurant of today, the space has shifted shape considerably in the pub’s nearly two centuries of existence. 

Yet the Full Circle exhibition taking place at Chez Crix exposes a missing piece of the puzzle, a story we’re excited to share. We were lucky enough to make it to the show’s opening – proudly supported by TGBC – for a chat with those involved.

WALTZING MEMORY LANE

Wesley Cooper Jones took over the reins for the kitchen in 2023 with plans of doing something a little different from what one might expect of their local. With an education at establishments like Berowra Waters Inn and The Old Fitz, the young chef from the South Coast had a vision. ‘A tribute to the great bistros of Paris,’ he describes, ‘a no-fuss offering of classics (and some decidedly less classic), cuisine that’s accessible and affordable.’ 

It’s the approachability of the menu that transports one to Parisian memories. Eating at Chez Crix evokes dining in a city where incredible food is available at your everyday bar or cafe, without the fine-dining exclusivity. 

Back in the 80s, Frenchman Martial Cosyn also worked as a head chef in Surry Hills – a period he fondly recalls. Recently returning to the area, he stopped in at the Crix for old time’s sake. 

He shares of his first trip back in many moons, ‘It was 36 years since I last walked those stairs! Wesley and the team were prepping away, but he kindly showed me around the kitchen and dining room. Ours was an instantaneous connection.’ 

From the start, Wesley could sense a story behind the man’s familiarity. It had him intrigued enough to put the tools down, despite the demands of their upcoming service. ‘With no worry to his waltz, I could tell Martial had some staunch chef roots…’ he observes.

TIMELESS DINING

In developing the bistro concept for what he thought was a new chapter, Wes had no idea that his plans for the place would see history repeat itself. And, like stepping through a time warp, Martial was astonished by what he found upon his return to the Cricketer’s Arms. 

‘Chez Crix, as it is called now, is barely different from the place I knew all those years ago. Most surprisingly, the menu is very similar.’

Despite the similarities, back in Martial’s time, punters could enjoy a 3-course meal for under $25! That’s hard to imagine in the Surry Hills of today, especially with choices like ‘fish and green prawn terrine’ and ‘braised guinea fowl’. 

Martial continues: ‘Just like mine, the menu today is Frenchish and short, with 5 entrees, the same number of mains and desserts.’ 

Wes adds, ‘After convincing Martial to stay for dinner, we shared nostalgic kitchen stories and he showed me reviews from 1988. We discussed items from his menu – surprisingly similar to what I'm offering now. Both have a heavy focus on pâté work, utilising whole animal butchery and a conscious choice to use local seafood.’

The chefs of yesterday and today chatted excitedly about the surprising realisation about the parallels between their work at the same pub, separated by decades. Photos from yellowed newspaper clippings show that even the dining room decor is almost completely unchanged, with the exact same copper tables, bent wood chairs and lampshades. 

Neither Martial nor Wes had any idea until this serendipitous moment. Yet it felt like there was something special brewing off the back of their encounter.

KITCHEN TO CANVAS

Growing up in France to a mother who studied painting in Paris, ‘Frenchish’ fare is not the only quality to the old menus that speaks to Martial’s background. With their dreamy cursive script and whimsically illustrated borders, it’s no surprise Martial himself graduated from the kitchen to the artworld. Now, after hanging up the chef’s whites, he’s followed in his mother’s footsteps to become an accomplished oil painter. 

With a full belly and a few glasses of wine under his belt, Martial soon let slip of his artistic passions to Wes. The pair immediately began hatching plans. An idea began to form, easy and fluid as the dining experience at Chez Crix. ‘Wes and I chatted until the possibility of having a show in the dining room popped up. I'm not even sure who thought of it first!’ Martial shares. 

Inspired to celebrate their kindred spirit, it was decided: Martial would exhibit his artworks in the dining room and Wes would cook his interpretation of items from the 1988 Crix menu to support. The name for this celebration dangled right there in front of them like saucisson on a string: Full Circle.  

Martial’s playful oil interpretations of Australian life and French dining will hang on the Chez Crix  walls for 6 weeks. Dynamic, colourful and humourous, the exhibition is complimented by Wesley’s vibrant, adventurous dishes. Together, it’s a testament to the enduring creativity of a kitchen. We tried the green prawn terrine on opening night with a Grifter Pale and can confirm it was a hit!

Get along to dine at Chez Crix to experience it for yourself. ‘I for one think it is a great story.’ Martial concludes.